Spain’s Hidden Costa

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Salobrena

We have all heard of the Costa del Sol, Costa Blanca, Costa Dorada…now there’s another one to add to the list: Costa Tropical.

A short flight to Malaga takes you to the busy resorts of Benalmadena, Torremolinos, and Marbella,  but a short detour will take you to an authentic  Spanish town called Salobreña in the province of Granada, just over an hour from Malaga airport.

The Costa Tropical name is because of the area’s fertile farmlands full of a variety of fruits and vegetables, some of which I had never heard of. Thousands of years ago, this area was completely covered by the sea and Salobreña castle was built to ward off pirates and raiders. Over time the sea drew back and the town expanded, leaving the land fertile for farmers. It is said there is a sweet water running underneath, which boosts the soil for the abundant ‘tropical’ produce. Salobreña is located in the Andalusian region of Spain, known for its flamenco culture, Moorish style, Pueblos Blancos (White Villages), mountain villages and never-ending coastline. Andalusia is a road trippers dream, with many cities to stop in, including Seville, Granada, Malaga, Ronda, Mijas and Salobreña.

You will know you have nearly reached the latter when you catch a glimpse of the majestic castle – Castillo de Salobreña – on top of a hill – the iconic defining feature. The castle dates as far back as the 10th century and there are many steps up to it. Its maze-like layout means you might get lost but it is well worth the panoramic views of the Sierra Nevada mountains and the Mediterranean. Under the castle you will see the local pueblo blanco embedded into the hillside and at night time, it lights up like a beautiful fairy light chain when the lights come on in the homes. It’s truly magical. Look out in the distance for the snowcapped Sierra Nevada mountains, just a short 40-minute drive away, where you can also go skiing in the winter months.

Unlike many busy Spanish resorts, there are no hotel chains here and you won’t find any fast-food chains here either. It doesn’t want to entice visitors who like convenience; they want you to live like a local and experience the Salobreña way of life.

Hotel Avenida Tropical is a family boutique hotel, less than 10 minutes’ walk to the beach, in walking distance to the town and also to the castle. The hotel caters for couples, solo travellers and also has family apartments. There’s a rooftop sun lounge area, a jacuzzi with stunning views, a kid’s play area and a sun terrace beside a brand-new swimming pool. The rooms are very authentically Spanish with dark wood furnishings, marble floors and comfortable beds.

The town has an array of local tavernas offering complimentary tapas with every drink. You can do as the locals do and sample tapas, washed down with local wines, sangria or their bespoke non-alcoholic wine, Castillo de Salobreña. Unlike the Irish carvery cuisine and fast-food culture, Spanish dining is little and often with so many varieties of salads, fresh fish and meat. You seem to eat lots without feeling full to the brim.

What to do

There is plenty to do here and you could easily spend ten days or more exploring the area without running out of things to see. Salobreña makes an excellent base for discovering nearby towns and cities such as Granada, Málaga, Nerja, Ronda and Estepona, whether by bus or rental car. The sound of bells from the nearby village of Vélez heralds beautiful church interiors which are always magical. Also close by are the tranquil Nasrid Gardens, often called the Garden of the Senses. Dating back to the last Moorish rulers of Granada, the gardens are filled with terraces, fountains, water channels and hidden corners and caves, offering a fascinating glimpse into the elegant garden design that flourished in Andalusia centuries ago.

If you want to explore more, you could also opt for a drive to the Sierra Nevada mountains or for the more adventurous, hire a bike and cycle there. There are many cycling trails from Salobreña. For the less adventurous, you can rent a bike yourself or hire one with a local guide. It is such a good way to see the town – check out Truj Bike Workshop for a two-hour e-bike guided tour from €45.

 If you like walking, the Mediterranean Coastal Walk – about 40 minutes one-way – is off the beaten track and brings you to La Caleta beach. Wear trainers for this and bring water. If you love the water, you can rent a kayak and a guide and explore Caleta coves and the coastal area (€35; see www.cabopesca.com).

The recently built Rules Dam was constructed to supply water to the Costa Tropical and protect against flooding. It has become one of the region’s most striking landmarks, with beautiful mountain views for plenty of photo opportunities. A short drive to the seaside town of Castell de Ferro and you can also take a short coastal walk up to the suspension bridge, La Pasarela Colgante de Jolúcar. Built in 2022, it features a partial glass section where you can look down at the waves. It has spectacular viewpoints for sunset lovers and a mountain coastal walk down to a hidden quiet cove. Though do take note this is a nudist beach.

If walking and kayaking is not your thing, you can visit a local ecological farm and taste their incredible selection of fruits and vegetables, which ideally has to be booked by phone. Salobreña was also renowned for its sugar cane produce for many years and was a huge part of their economy and identity. Sugar cane thrived in the fertile, tropical climate for generations but declined because of tourism, cheaper imports and agricultural changes in Europe. You can still visit a sugar cane farm and cellar, Bodegas El Mondero and sample their rum, honey and ice cream.

Dining

Food lovers will be spoiled for choice in Salobreña. Everywhere we ate, the food was excellent and very affordable, with generous portions that are ideal for sharing. There are no fast-food chains here, but if you’re craving a burger, Burger Lover near the beachfront has a great reputation. As you make your way up towards the castle through the maze of whitewashed streets, you’ll find charming restaurants tucked around every corner, many with stunning mountain and castle views. One of my favourites was the family-run Restaurant Botica, where the terrace views were as memorable as the food. Along the coast, Restaurant Manolo on La Caleta beach is a local favourite, while Restaurant Flores on Salobreña beach is another excellent choice. From freshly made paella to grilled sardines straight from the sea, the aromas will entice you in. We ended our trip in the lively La Bahía area, watching the sunset over the Mediterranean while dining at Marazul, a fantastic restaurant run by local entrepreneur Alex, whose passion and gastronomical vision for his restaurant is inspiring.

Whether you spend your days wandering the whitewashed streets of Salobreña, admiring its colourful street art, hopping between tapas bars, exploring breathtaking coastal walks or soaking up panoramic views of the Sierra Nevada and the Mediterranean from the castle, this charming corner of Andalusia invites you to slow down or simply do…nothing.

 

Published in the Irish Daily Mail 25/7/2026

 

Travel Facts

Aer Lingus and Ryanair have regular direct flights to Malaga.

Hotel Avenida Tropical double rooms start from B&B €70 (depending on season)

Admission to Salobreña Castle – €4

Admission to Nasrid Gardens – €2

Guided kayaking tour, 2 hours with Cabopesca – €35

E-bike guided tour, 2 hours with Truj Bikes – €45

Guided Eco Farm Tour – €8

Rum cellar tour and tasting El Mondero: €8

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