River cruising is a unique way to explore the world, offering front-row seats to stunning landscapes and intimate cultural encounters—all without the crowds of ocean cruising. Imagine drifting past medieval castles, sun-drenched vineyards and bustling towns, all from the comfort of a floating boutique hotel. That’s exactly what I experienced on my journey onboard the AmaMagna, part of the AmaWaterways fleet. Designed by Rudi Schreiner, the ‘Godfather of River Cruising,’ this ship redefines river travel with its spacious accommodations, luxury amenities and immersive experiences including their unique excursions, cultural entertainment onboard and traditional dining options. Here’s how my unforgettable journey unfolded:
Luxury Afloat: The AmaMagna Experience
The AmaMagna is no ordinary river ship—it’s twice the width of traditional European vessels, offering incomparable space and comfort. With suites ranging from 355 to 710 square feet, many featuring private balconies, you feel more like you are in a boutique hotel than on a ship. What’s onboard? A Zen Wellness Studio complete with massage rooms, a salon, a fitness centre and a juice bar. On the sun deck there is a heated pool, whirlpool and a full-size pickleball (padel) court. After long days out on excursions (which are included in your cruise price) coming back onboard was like coming home.
Dining was another highlight with four unique venues: the main dining area is for breakfast, lunch and dinner, The Chef’s Table with its seven-course tasting menu is incredible, Jimmy’s* is a cosy, family-style space with an Irish connection and Al Fresco, where fresh Mediterranean dishes come with panoramic river views (one of my favourites for breakfast) Each meal felt like an event, with carefully paired wines enhancing every course. For casual moments and social chats with other guests, there are coffee stations throughout the ship.
From Romania to Bulgaria: A Warm Welcome
Our adventure began in Dublin, where we flew via Lufthansa to Frankfurt and onward to Bucharest. After a 90-minute coach transfer to the port in Giurgiu, Romania, we stepped onboard the AmaMagna. From the moment we arrived, the hospitality was exceptional. The staff greeted us warmly and within minutes of boarding, we were sipping champagne in our suite, oohing and aahing at the comfort and elegance of our suite.
Giurgiu, located on the Danube River opposite Rousse, Bulgaria, was the first stop of our journey. A quiet yet culturally rich town, Giurgiu is the gateway to Bulgaria via the Friendship Bridge. After an engaging introduction meeting with our fellow passengers and the ship’s staff members, we set sail at around 9 p.m. Within 30 minutes, we docked in Rousse, just across the river. That evening, the mood was festive, as everyone relaxed into the luxurious surroundings, preparing for the days ahead.
Exploring Bulgaria: Vidin’s Historic Treasures
In Bulgaria, we stopped in Vidin, a town steeped in history. Among the excursion options were walking tours to the Baba Vida Fortress, cycling adventures and culinary tastings of banitsa pastries and homemade yogurt. We opted for the Baba Vida Fortress walking tour, which revealed Vidin’s rich heritage and its blend of Roman, Ottoman and Bulgarian influences.
The fortress, a medieval marvel perched by the river, was particularly impressive, offering both historical insights and picturesque views. Other notable sites included the Vidin Synagogue, a testament to the town’s diverse cultural history and the St. Dimitar Cathedral, Bulgaria’s second-largest. For those with a taste for adventure, bike tours are available for a more active way to see the town’s sights and also wine tastings showcasing the local flavours.
Through the Iron Gates: Serbia’s Scenic Wonder
Waking up to sail through the Iron Gates Gorge, the largest lock on the Danube, was a magical experience. The autumnal colours of the surrounding landscapes created a stunning backdrop as we enjoyed breakfast in the Al Fresco dining area. This stretch of the river also features Europe’s tallest carved rock sculpture, the face of Decebalus, a Dacian king—a breathtaking sight.
In Golubac, Serbia, the AmaMagna docked beside a medieval fortress that seemed straight out of a fairytale. The fortress tour was one of the easiest excursions, with a short walk from the ship to the site. Our guide brought the history of the area to life and afterwards the local food and wine tastings added an extra touch to the experience.
Belgrade and Beyond: Serbia’s Modern Heart
Serbia’s capital, Belgrade, offered a contrast to the smaller towns we had visited. Docked right near the city centre, we opted for a walking tour that took us through vibrant streets and past landmarks reflecting Ottoman, Austro-Hungarian and Yugoslav influences. Highlights included historical museums, a majestic church and brandy tasting sessions. The city’s Christmas market added a festive feel, with colourful stalls and as I walked along the main shopping street, it reminded me of Grafton street with their own local buskers singing.
Belgrade is a real city of contrasts, where modern skyscrapers sit alongside centuries-old fortresses. It was fascinating to witness the blend of cultures and traditions that define this lively capital. Belgrade was an unexpected highlight and a place I’d love to revisit.
Croatia and Hungary: Wine and Heritage
In Ilok, Croatia, we ventured to a charming town known for its wine cellars and rich heritage. A short bus ride through snow-covered landscapes brought us to a royal wine-tasting experience with a king’s table setting. The wine cellars underground were extraordinary and some of the wine barrel sizes were huge (3-4 times my size) In Hungary, we explored Pécs, a city near the Croatian border. Its Roman, Ottoman, and Hungarian landmarks create a very unique atmosphere. The centre piece is a domed mosque, built during Ottoman rule but now is a Catholic church. Walking through Pécs felt like stepping back in time, with its blend of ancient ruins, historic churches and vibrant side streets.
A Grand Finale in Budapest
Our final stop was Budapest, Hungary’s dazzling capital. Waking up to the sight of its iconic skyline was unforgettable. The city is divided by the Danube into Buda and Pest. Walking along the river past the Parliament Buildings, crossing the famous Chain Bridge and visiting Christmas markets were just a few highlights. We walked along the Danube Bank where we saw the bronze shoes dotted along the bank which is a Holocaust memorial honouring the jews that were executed along the Danube river in WW11. It is so heartbreaking to see.
Budapest has a vibrant energy contrasted beautifully with the serene towns we had visited earlier. It’s a city that needs more time and I would definitely plan a return visit.
Why Choose a River Cruise?
This journey onboard the AmaMagna proved that river cruising is more than just a mode of travel—it’s an immersive, cultural experience. The seamless blend of comfort, culture and cuisine makes it a perfect choice for travellers looking for both relaxation and adventure. Unlike ocean cruises, where ports can feel crowded and rushed, river cruises offer a more intimate connection to each destination and I loved the ever-changing scenery right outside my window.
For those who want to explore multiple countries and immerse themselves in local traditions without the hassle of constant packing and unpacking, a river cruise is the ideal solution. And with AmaWaterways’ exceptional service and attention to detail, you will come home not only with incredible memories but also with a longing to book your next one.
I wanted to add in about the co-founder Jimmy Murphy who is Irish –
* Jimmy Murphy was a Co-Founder of AmaWaterways
Jimmy Murphy, a brilliant Irish travel entrepreneur, began his career with Aer Lingus before making the move to the U.S. There, he founded Brendan Vacations, carving out a successful path in the travel industry. Along the way, he met Rudi Schreiner and shared his vision for AmaWaterways, ultimately co-founding the company alongside Rudi and Kristin Karst. Well-loved by many, the kind-hearted leader known to his employees as ‘Mr. Murphy’ was honoured in 2019 when AmaWaterways chose to celebrate his legacy by naming a new family-style restaurant, Jimmy’s, after him onboard the AmaMagna.
AmaWaterways offer a choice of itineraries on AmaMagna, including the seven night Gems of Southeast Europe. Prices start from €5,271per person based on two people sharing a category D stateroom. This price is valid for 18 May, 15 June and 22 June 2025 sailings and includes flights from Dublin and overseas transfers. All AmaWaterways cruises include all meals, drinks with lunch and dinner, daily sip and sail cocktail and a choice of small group excursions. To book an AmaWaterways river cruise visit your local travel agent, AmaWaterways.eu or call +44 (0) 333 305 3926.
Published article in the Irish Daily Mail on 18/1/2025